Territorial rabbit.....?

Lot of reading, I apologise.



We have a lion-head rabbit, female (spayed last week). She is very territorial over her hutch but only in a morning. She lives in the shed in a double hutch, attached to the hutch is a rabbit tunnel which goes through the side wall of the shed and leads to a large run in the garden.



The tunnel has a wooden cover built inside the hutch with a latch so we can lock her in at night.



She isn't the most sociable of rabbits (despite best efforts) but will tolerate a small amount of grooming.



The main problem I am having at the moment is when I go to open the tunnel in a morning, she grunts and lunges at my hand (I have to lean into the hutch to unlatch the cover). She is happy for me to go and sit with her during the day and she will sit and be petted. She doesn't mind when I go to lock her up at night (although it takes a lot to get her back inside!) but I need to stop the morning lunges......



Any ideas would be really appreciated.

Territorial rabbit.....?
She just got spayed and her hormones are going wild and will for a few weeks. How old is she? I would wear gloves and make sure to keep going in you don't want this to become a habit, plus she's still sore and doesn't want to be bothered but make sure to check in suture site and make sure she's not gotten an infection. She should settle back down in a couple weeks.

Kuuonita:

agree:)



Edit:



Sounds hormonal, she SHOULD settle down, little stinker:) But like I said make a point when she does this to pick her up, (yes save yourself the blood loose) with gloved hands so she realizes this isn't going to work. Just hold her a few seconds, but don't put her down while she's having a fit when she's quite for just a couple seconds then release her. But wait til the 11th day of surgery to make sure she's got a good heal from surgery. Hope all is better in a couple weeks might take up to 4 wks. This at least worked with my girl, she was nasty, and that was a yr. ago and know she's fine, very sweet and loving.
Reply:The following was compiled by me to give more help to new rabbit owners and I exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lop rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50+ years ago, when I was a small child.



History.

Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).



Behaviour of all rabbits.

Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour

By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.



Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs and along with the following. Vegetables:

Artichoke leaves and Jerrusalem leaves, stems and tubers, Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorns and full size ones, Beetroot, Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties), Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts), Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets), Carrots (and carrot tops), Cauliflower (and the leaves), Celeriac, Celery (and its leaves), Chicory (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Courgette ( also leaves and flowers), Cucumber ( also leaves and flowers), Curly Kale (Excerlent for winter use), Fennel, Green beans (including leaves and stems), Kohl rabi, Parsnip, Peas (including the leaves and pods), Peppers (red, green and yellow), Pumpkin ( also leaves and flowers), Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine (and all other lettuce as this is a diretic), Spinach (only occasional), Spring Greens, Squash (e.g. Butternut, leaves and flowers), Swede (Excerlent for winter use), Turnip (only occasional), Watercress.

Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil, Coriander, Dill, Mint (peppermint), Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.

Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content): all types of fresh fruit including skin Apple, Apricot, Banana (high in potassium),Blackberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties), Blueberries,Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi Fruit, Melon, Mango, Nectarines, Orange, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Plums, Strawberries, Raspberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties), Tomatoes (not the leaves)

Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed ( in small amounts as this is a diretic), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Dandelion (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!, Lavender, Mallow, Nettle (the type with the white flowers), Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Shepherd's purse, Sow Thistle, Plantain, Yarrow.

Extra vitamins and salt licks are not required. Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.

To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their low quality food, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing. Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots



Rabbits living indoor will drink more water than rabbits living out of doors because of the dryer atmosphere



Housing

For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.

Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you can not therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.

Rabbits are naturally very clean animals and will only defecate and urinate in one area.



Bedding

Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.

Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings



Exercise

Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.

Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).



Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.

Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.

Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.



Health

It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your child's rabbit.

To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. I don't see altering as cruel when the kits may be dead in a year anyway; either through being "released" into the wild" or being slaughtered in a shelter when the owners have got bored of them.

Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.



Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling.

Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries, nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned and
Reply:My rabbit started doing that when we used to reach for her food bowl in the morning. A friend who also owned a rabbit told me that rabbits need salt in their diet and the rabbit can sense the salt on our skin and is just trying to get the salt. She told me to get a salt lick from the pet shop which I did although i didn't think it would make a difference. My rabbit was about 9 months when she forst started biting. I got her the salt lick and for the next four and a half years she never bit anyone again - ever! Sadly she went missing one day and I wasn't able to find her!

Salt licks are fairly cheap and last months if you don't get them wet. Make sure you always have gresh water available for your rabbit as it makes them thirsty.
Reply:Give her a month for all her hormones to settle down.

Do not let her do this to you after that time. When she lunges at you either lightly tap her on the nose and say NO in a firm voice or take her from the hutch and hold her and tell her No.



It may just be a matter of her getting the hormones gone. She started this because once they are ready to breed they become aggressive to protect the young. The does are worse than the bucks.



Also Lionheads are known to be very territorial of their homes(hutches)

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